Return to the West I: Longings for Elsewhere
During my midlife graduate study of philosophy at the University of Illinois, from time to time I was invited to francophone dinner parties given by the bilingual secretary of the French Department, whom I knew through mutual friends. Besides Americans for whom French was a second language, guests were visitors to the Illinois prairie from Canada, Belgium, Algeria, Senegal, Côte d’Ivoire and other French-speaking African countries, as well as from France. Those international evenings granted all of us a most welcome temporary illusion – that of being in Paris, dream capital for all enamored of the French language and culture.
During my midlife graduate study of philosophy at the University of Illinois, from time to time I was invited to francophone dinner parties given by the bilingual secretary of the French Department, whom I knew through mutual friends. Besides Americans for whom French was a second language, guests were visitors to the Illinois prairie from Canada, Belgium, Algeria, Senegal, Côte d’Ivoire and other French-speaking African countries, as well as from France. Those international evenings granted all of us a most welcome temporary illusion – that of being in Paris, dream capital for all enamored of the French language and culture.
When I had first arrived in
town, I’d been told that Champaign-Urbana was a wonderful place to “get work
done” because there were “no distractions.” While scholars at the Chicago
campus might be challenged by temptations of the city itself, no such danger
existed downstate.
After one of her delightful
dinner evenings, my French-speaking hostess remarked rhapsodically, intending
neither irony nor humor, “Champaign-Urbana is such a wonderful place! There are
so many people here who desire to be elsewhere!”
Desiring to be elsewhere....
What I remember of my birth
state, South Dakota, comes from a later visit, a camping trip in my seventeenth
summer. My memories of growing up center instead on Joliet, Illinois, and while
the memories are far from being nightmares, for years there I longed to escape, and once
escaped have never contemplated permanent return. As a child, I spent long,
dreamy hours on the front porch, gazing west across the cornfields on the other
side of the road (soybeans in alternate years), yearning for wild open spaces
where I would not be hemmed in by suburban streets and land cultivated for
agricultural crops. No one would have known it to look at me, but in my imagination
I rode a galloping horse toward the setting sun.
But it is no fault intrinsic
to Illinois that the Land of Lincoln felt like a prison for me. Illinois was cast
in that thankless role in my personal story, I see now, because of the facts of
childhood dependency, adolescent longing, and, later, the suffocating
constrictions of graduate study. No doubt I would have had the same longings
for escape in Albany or Phoenix, had circumstances other than place been the
same.
For years, Michigan was the
dream. From the time I was twelve years old, our family camping trips took
place along the Lake Michigan shoreline from Indiana to the Straits of
Mackinac. Camping – vacation -- escapes from school and housework and all
ordinary strictures of urban/suburban life. Sun or rain, regardless of
temperature, in Michigan we lived the outdoor life that fueled my dreams, so it
is little wonder I saw Michigan as embodying those dreams, that life. At the
age of eighteen, I moved to Michigan at last.
Having a dream is one thing.
Living it is another. Reality is always a mix of light and shadow. But I have
not been disappointed living the dream. Michigan is home.
It took a while, but working
year after year in jobs often experienced as miserable servitude I managed at
last to find a way of being in the world that has remained with me, for the
most part, ever since. That is, wherever I am, living or visiting, I try to be fully. After all, if I could afford to travel endlessly,
would I not devour every strange sight and sound and make the most of every
moment? So why not do that wherever my here is on any given day?
In Kalamazoo, then, on long
walks or bus rides through the city, I came to see every building and alley and
tree, in every detail, as unique and fascinating and delightfully foreign. The same was true for me of Cincinnati during two
years I spent there. In the beautiful northern Michigan county where I have
lived and worked now for over two decades, I am astonished at how many people
will spend hours puffing away at indoor exercise rather than walking the roads
and woods around them.
There is so much to see in the world, and the scenes are never the same two
days in a row – they change from one hour to the next. For every one of us, life is too short to contain all
possible experiences, and these are not limited to sight alone, either. I have
imagined being without sight, without hearing, and how much delight would
remain in the fragrance and touch of a June breeze here at home, sitting
outdoors below the linden tree in bloom.
“We’re here now” has been my
mantra for years. Being here is
not something I want to miss.
And yet – and yet -- .
By December of 2014 we had
been four years at home without any significant travel or time away when
unexpectedly a possibility for adventure appeared. Someone we knew owned a
cabin in southern Arizona, and we could rent it for the winter. The very
modest price put it within our reach; the price was modest in keeping with the
cabin and its location. We would know no one and have few neighbors -- all the
better, as far as I was concerned, because as soon as the property owner
casually tossed off the phrases “ghost town,” “high desert,” and “open range,”
my heart throbbed with old cowgirl dreams.
I had not, as an adult, yearned
for Arizona. If anything, to be honest, I was somewhat impatient with Michigan
friends who jumped ship for the winter to head for the sunny warmth of the
Southwest. Certainly, I had no desire to spend months quarantined in a trailer
park or a condo, but a ghost town a mile above sea level with cattle roaming
through the yard? Vivid images filled my imagination, and while negotiations
were in abeyance it seemed that all my happiness depended on spending winter in
the high desert.
We went. We saw. We explored.
I fell in love. In the spring we came home again. That was then, and this is
now.
Home happiness has never kept
us from having travel dreams. Over the years we made actual travels, too,. One
September we flew to France, a place we had each loved for a long time, finally
joining our separate loves of Paris and discovering together new regions to the
south. Another year, in the spring, we drove across the Canadian Shield to
Montreal, an exciting and cosmopolitan North American City it had long been my
dream to visit. The Florida Everglades were wildly different from northern
Michigan, as was the fascinating Gulf Coast, where we spent a couple of winters
(yes, it must be admitted – winters away from Michigan) in the tiny “Old
Florida” settlement of Aripeka. Coming home one spring from Florida, we passed
through the vibrant beauty of Savannah, Georgia, which featured youth as well
as venerable age. And twice we followed the course of the Mississippi from
Illinois to the Twin Cities of Minnesota, crossing back and forth from one bank
to the other, hungrily devouring every sight along every bend of the river.
Back at home, we relived
adventures and dreamed of returning to this or that place, of relocating
somewhere else for part of the year, and of exploring new places not yet
experienced. The imaginary lives we have lived are beyond number. How many
times was it love, and how often mere infatuation? And how does one tell,
except over time?
As teasing, reluctant
northern Michigan spring advances and retreats following a blessedly mild
winter, I look forward to the joys of the unfolding season. Still, I must
confess my heart was not fully here in the cold and snow just past. Again and
again it returned to the scruffy, hardworking, struggling, unglamorous scenes
of southeast Arizona: the ghost town, the playa, the cow town, the isolation,
the open spaces, the cows and horses and mountains.
I wonder how I will feel when
spring has fully arrived, when the woods are full of the sweet, ephemeral
blooms of wildflowers, when it is time to dig and turn the garden and inhale
the fragrance of living soil. Will those long-beloved sights and perfumes
banish my longing for the dry, dusty high desert?
If not, can I possibly write
a travelogue while going nowhere? Can I transport not only myself but also
anyone who cares to read my words to another place? Can I convey anything of
what enchanted me in a part of the country not known for wide appeal to
tourists or snowbirds?
“Be thinkin’ about it,” the
announcer kept telling to the young rodeo riders waiting their turn in the
arena.
I’m thinkin’ about it.
1 comment:
Having just spent a week near Tucson hiking in the spring desert... I get it... great piece. And glad you chose Michigan!
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